Rabu, 21 Oktober 2009

Paris Fashion Week: Looking for Spring Inspiration?

Ok, so after writing about Milan Fashion Week earlier, I decided it was probably a good idea to check out how it was all going in Paris as their fashion week kicked off after Milan.  But - I warn you, this is a long blog!  There were so many designers that I had to write about that I almost had to make this a two-parter.  In the end, I thought, so what, let's make it monumental!  


There was a lot of repetition...  Same old, same old.  Lanvin is still going through it's Grecian draping period, Jean-Paul Gaultier (sorry to say) rehashed some old Madonna-inspired cone-shape corsets and trench coats, actually there were many, many trench coats to be seen.  Long, short, cropped, see-through, lace, deconstructed.  Other trends I noticed were polka dots and stripes. Especially spotted tights and socks.  Plaid, denim and digitally printed fabrics, and lots of black, white and khaki - or khaki themed colours.  Rick Owens showed why he's still a sophomore and has so much to learn with his origami inspired but boring repetitious designs, with his models looking like cadavers.  I know it's harsh, but come on!  Honestly, the media is turning these designers into god-like figures and why? Not a lot of them have done the hard yards and spent the time learning their craft like the great masters.  The media needs to slow down their instant appreciation and take a good bloody look!  Valentino was beautiful, but there was nothing really new on offer.  Where is fashion heading?  Where is the inspiration?


Is this is a reflection on the current economic climate, because it would be a shame if it is because I would have thought that in order to help us out of the doom and gloom designers would have bestowed upon us colour and light and traditional spring frivolity.  Givenchy's models positively oozed death-warmed-up - of course leave it to Kaiser Karl to top all the shows with his Chanel haybarn showdown.  No gloomy-faced models there, no they were all smiling and happy and flirtatious.


I have put together some favourites, some that are doing their best to evoke spring and some well, they just have to be seen to be believed.


Balenciaga

Dyed and treated leather that looked like denim, kilts woven and vertical and horizontal stripes.

Gorgeous urban looks, the tightest of jeans and tailored pants, hoodies and futuristic prints.  I guess not what one would call a traditional look for spring, but I loved it anyway. 


Balmain

I love these military jackets, very Duke of Wellington at Waterloo.  Daria's tee looks as if she's actually escaped a war zone!  Grecian / Roman influence is still prevalent in many of the Parisian designers looks.

Balmain has stuck to its shape from last season, squared shoulders, tight and distressed jeans, disheveled clothing, sorry, I mean that sexy just got out of bed look.


Chanel

Chanel outshone its competitors - not a difficult feat in light of the visionary Karl Largerfeld at the helm. Pretty dresses, ballet slipper ribbon inspired shoes, cupie dolls and french maids all in a row.


Deconstructed lace, batwing arms, patchwork, plaid and checks.

Lily Allen rocked the house of Chanel.



Colette Dinnegan
Colette didn't fail with her gloriously pretty, feminine designs.

Spotty hosiery, black and grey prevailed, but oh so feminine.

Flirty, flouncy, lace, embroider and short skirts.

When she used colour, oh what colour!  I love this red and orange printed frock with just a hint of a bejewelled bodice poking through.  And simple green elegance, just divine!




Christian Dior by John Galliano

Oooh! The corsets and the tailoring, the pleating and the chiffon!  Soo delicious! 

I am loving the little tailored trench jackets here.  I would LOVE to have this one on the left.

Galliano is obviously still influenced greatly by the 30s and 40s - no problem with that, I love it too!

Pure glamour and sophistication!



Stunning!  J'adore everyone of these designs, particularly the little black one with the purple flower detail.  The colours are just so POW!  Just what I would expect from Dior and for spring, oui?


Jean-Paul Gaultier


Body armor and trench coats, such a mixture of textures and themes here.  

There is an underlying 80s theme in the collection, and the hair, well one cannot deny the Cyndi Lauper-esqueness of it all!


Givenchy by Ricardo Tisci


I loved this collection, it was beautiful.  I was disappointed with it too however because I felt we were not seeing anything new from Ricardo.  And the models, well they looked like they were the walking dead, not really something you want to emulate when thinking of Spring I expect?


Alexander McQueen
McQueen has just outdone himself with this collection.  The digital prints are out of this world!  I would give anything to see this collection in the flesh and not just online.  I bet the detail and tailoring is utter perfection.


McQueen truly is the master of avant garde for me.  He is always unexpected, he opens my eyes every time.



Sonia Rykiel

Stripes, quilting, shorts, skirts, suits, mini berets, jumpsuits and lots and lots of colour!  J'adore this collection!  I want every piece of it!


Stella McCartney
I think this would have to be the most wearable collection of the spring runway.  I just love the denim skirts and Stella's gorgeous tailoring and colour palette. 


Flowing, folds of gorgeous spring fabrics, j'adore!

Très comfortable chic, oui?


Frocks to frolic in, can't you just see yourself springing along the footpath en route to a fabulous spring party?



Valentino
Just so elegant and beautiful.  But alas, where is the spring colour palette? 





Yves Saint Laurent
Very 80s inspired, I'm sure my Mum used to have something just like this in her wardrobe all those years ago.  But isn't it gorgeous?  It's like he's gathered the fabric and just wrapped it around the model and tied it all together with a simple belt.  

What could be more spring than strawberries?  So pretty and fresh, love it.


Louis Vuitton - sorry, hated it, especially the stupid afro wigs - blah!


Honorable Mention - Hussein Chalayan

Sexy, nautical chic, divine!




To my dear and darling best friend Kirsty, congratulations on the birth of your new daughter Maisy Rose.  She looks divine, I can't wait to meet her in person!  My love to you and your family on this momentous occasion. Love you! xxxoo








Ciao for now,


Hx






Sources: all images from Style.com - with thanks.

Tidak ada komentar:

Posting Komentar